This Dessert Is Worthy of a Diva, or Two
Here’s a recreation for the food-obsessed: Instead of considering which historic figures you’d invite to a cocktail party, image the dishes you’d serve for the meal. As in oysters Rockefeller adopted by tournedos Rossini with a facet of Caesar salad?
Then for dessert, will it’s a fruity peach Melba and vanilla ice cream drizzled with raspberry purée (created by Escoffier and named for the opera star Nellie Melba)? Or an ethereal meringue Pavlova, mounded with whipped cream (named for the ballerina Anna Pavlova)? At my desk, I’d have them each, sharing the plate in a method the 2 divas by no means did the stage.
And it was this type of daydreaming that led to my concept for a raspberry-stippled Pavlova topped with peaches and cream.
In season on the similar time, peaches and raspberries are a reasonably intuitive mixture.CreditRyan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
This isn’t to say that Pavlova with peaches and raspberries is an enormous leap. Peaches and raspberries are in season on the similar time, so it’s a reasonably intuitive mixture for any summer season dessert. It’s additionally a fairly one, particularly in the event you use yellow moderately than white peaches to shine brightly towards the pale cream.
But I didn’t go away it there. Wanting to make a bolder gesture to honor the 2 flamboyant performers, I took the idea one step additional, including freeze-dried raspberry powder to the meringue.
My considering was the raspberry powder would speckle the egg whites vibrant fuchsia, including drama to the dessert course. But I wasn’t relying on a lot when it comes to style.
The reverse occurred. The deep fuchsia pale because the egg whites baked, turning mild pink. But the flavour packed a wallop. It was intensely fruity, with a candy, bitter, nearly candylike character — somewhat like SweeTarts, however airier.
Powdered freeze-dried raspberries add taste and texture to this dish. (You can go away them out, however it’ll be a gentler, extra delicate dessert.)CreditRyan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
The raspberry powder additionally made the meringue dense and chewy, giving it a marshmallow fluff-textured inside subsequent to the crisp, brittle shell.
Then to zip up the topping, I spiked the whipped cream with bitter cream for tang. And as for the fruit, I macerated the peach slices in a Demerara sugar syrup scented with vanilla and lemon zest, which I additionally drizzled on prime.
If you may’t discover the freeze-dried raspberries to powder, you may go away them out (or substitute one other freeze-dried fruit, corresponding to strawberry or mango). Without it, the Pavlova will probably be a gentler, extra delicate dessert. But both method, just like the performers who impressed it, it’s assured to steal the present.
Recipe: Raspberry Pavlova With Peaches and Cream
More from Melissa ClarkCookingRaspberry Pavlova With Peaches and CreamJuly 16, 2019Eggs Give Dessert a Spring in Its StepMarch 15, 2016The Perfect Pie for Less-Than-Perfect BerriesJune 29, 2018
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