This Is Some Spring Chicken

Roasting a hen by no means will get outdated. Simply seasoned with salt or vamped up with truffles stuffed into its intestine, so long as the pores and skin is crisp and the meat juicy, roast hen is one thing I’ll at all times devour proper all the way down to the bones.

This roast hen falls within the huge center floor between merely salted and truffle stuffed. The recipe is under no circumstances sophisticated, and doesn’t name for any rarefied elements. But the rhubarb glaze makes it particular: pink-hued, flippantly spiced, tangy-sweet and excellent for spring.

Its pinkness comes from lipstick-red rhubarb, the sort so saturated that it retains a rosy blush even when roasted. Not that the colour is in any respect integral to the flavour of the dish — pinkish shouldn’t be tastier than greenish. But it’s prettier.

Be they inexperienced or pink, plump, taut rhubarb stalks, with minimal brown spots stippling the pores and skin, are what you’re in search of; this signifies freshness. The more energizing they’re, the snappier-tasting, too.

Look for plump, taut rhubarb stalks, as vividly pink as lipstick.CreditDavid Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.The rhubarb is sliced, spiced with coriander and ginger, and sprinkled with sugar.CreditDavid Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Sliced, spiced with coriander and ginger, and sprinkled with sugar, the rhubarb is roasted in the identical oven because the hen, however in a separate dish. As it cooks, it turns mushy and syrupy, however by no means cloying, because of its personal brisk acidity and a few lemons. Tart and simply candy sufficient, a few of the rhubarb combination is brushed over the roasting hen, the place the sugar helps bronze its pores and skin. Then the remainder collapses right into a chutney-like condiment to serve alongside the chook.

There’s another part to this dish, and that’s the crisp pink onions. Unlike the rhubarb, which maintains a long way from the hen by roasting in its personal pan, the onions are scattered proper subsequent to the chook to allow them to take in all of its gingery, garlicky rendering fats. The fats is what makes the onions crunchy. Just ensure that to not slice them too thinly. You need them to crisp and brown as they roast, not blacken and burn. Assuming you’re not going to fish out a ruler to make dinner (I by no means do), err on the beneficiant aspect of a quarter-inch thick while you’re eyeballing it.

Then for serving, I wish to plop hen, onions and rhubarb right into a bowl of buttery polenta to catch all of the juices. But a plate and a ripped-up baguette will work simply as effectively.

Recipe: Roasted Chicken With Lemon-Glazed Rhubarb

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