Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish

In 2012 and 2013, when folks have been lining up at Smorgasburg after which on the second ground of the Houston Street Whole Foods Market for biodegradable bowls of Yuji Haraguchi’s mazemen — noodles that may be dressed with crisped twigs of bacon and a jiggling onsen egg, say, or yuzu-cured salmon and a few Camembert mushy sufficient to rework right into a sauce — I used to be certain the crowds would multiply and fan out, demanding extra of this unusual brothless ramen.

And they did, in a way. Soon Mr. Haraguchi had established his personal free-standing institution, Yuji Ramen in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, the place he serves that bacon-and-egg mazemen alongside along with his probably visionary “tunakotsu” ramen. In 2014, when Ivan Orkin got here to New York, he introduced alongside his personal mazemen recipes. Over the subsequent few years mazemen turned up in different eating places, too, however all of them remained higher recognized for soup ramen, and bought extra of it. It started to look as if mazemen would by no means be greater than a sideshow act, the one-armed ax-catcher of the ramen circus.

Then at first of the 12 months, the chef Shigetoshi Nakamura, who operates an intimate ramen store on the Lower East Side, opened an annex subsequent door that’s devoted to mazemen. All the seating at this new place, Niche, is at a dozen or so stools organized round one lengthy, slim desk. When the eating room is totally occupied, the one option to get from one finish to the opposite is to stroll sideways whereas holding your breath and selecting up all of the coats that you will knock off their wall pegs as you go.

Not that there’s a lot cause to roam round. Orders are taken from and delivered to the desk, and there’s no public restroom on the premises. As is the case subsequent door at Nakamura, seats by the window supply a close-up view of the stone partitions that help the previous few yards of the Williamsburg Bridge earlier than it empties onto Delancey Street.

Stools and a communal desk take up a lot of the eating room.CreditDaniel Krieger for The New York Times

Before he got here to New York, Mr. Nakamura was already well-known in Tokyo, the place he proved to have a theatrical streak. Before filling a bowl with noodles, he would yank them from the boiling water along with his left hand after which maintain them excessive within the air for just a few seconds, letting them drain whereas standing fully immobile. Suddenly he would drop his arm and the basket would plunge towards the water once more, earlier than stopping simply in time and getting one fast, emphatic shake. When Mr. Nakamura was immortalized as certainly one of 4 “ramen gods” in a set of Hello Kitty notepads and telephone straps, Kitty was posed together with her left paw raised excessive in emulation of the Nakamura Shake.

If Mr. Nakamura has been training his choreography on the spaghetti-like, crinkly noodles at Niche, I haven’t seen it but. The Nakamura Shake appears designed to extract cooking water as shortly as doable earlier than the noodles cool, and temperature is just not particularly vital in mazemen.

The thought of noodle soup with out the soup has been on the unfastened in Japan for many years. Broth is the most costly and labor-intensive a part of a bowl of ramen; within the 1950s, a Tokyo noodle store, within the pitiless logic of the restaurant enterprise, started omitting the broth when ladling out noodles at workers meals, or so the story goes. This “abura soba” — oil noodle, as a result of it was moistened with lard together with the seasoning sauce known as tare — wasn’t half unhealthy, so it went on the menu at a reduced value. As a good cheaper model of an already low cost and filling meal, abura soba was shortly embraced, particularly by college students.

As meals concepts are likely to do in Japan, it developed quickly. Today, abura soba tends to seek advice from dry soups which have kind of the identical toppings you’d discover in a bowl of regular ramen, whereas mazemen typically has toppings which might be not often seen in soup and sometimes wouldn’t reply effectively to being submerged in sizzling liquid.

There is Italian-style mazemen, with anchovies, salami, olives and tomatoes. Some mazemen retailers focus on fried beef cutlets. At a Tokyo restaurant known as Beefst, the centerpiece of every bowl is sliced roast beef, served uncommon.

Mr. Nakamura has a solution to that: steak mazemen. The steak is rib-eye, in cubes which have been browned with a kitchen torch. When you stir them with the noodles and a easy, creamy spoonful of one thing the menu merely calls “pork sauce,” their juices and flecks of char taste the entire bowl. Plain spinach and fermented bamboo, in the meantime, maintain the whole impact from being queasy-making. Novel, easy, refined, unruly and impure of coronary heart, steak mazemen has the makings of a basic New York dish.

In the Russ & Roe mazemen, smoked salmon and roe over ramen noodles, the brand new Lower East Side bows to the previous.CreditDaniel Krieger for The New York Times

So does the duck, a standard particular. A sliced breast of moulard duck cooked to a deep violet-pink, it’s served with a vivid, centered sauce constructed on soy and sufficient heat duck juices to lubricate the whole-wheat noodles. It is just not an austere dish by any means, however it’s balanced and restrained.

The similar can’t be mentioned for an additional particular that’s at all times provided on the identical nights: a bowl of liquefied foie gras topped with pistachios and truffle oil. It is just not clear what is going to occur to anybody who tries to eat this with a spoon, however the prognosis doesn’t appear good. Instead, everyone orders it with the duck mazemen and dips the noodles into the foie gras, after which aware thought tends to cease for a minute or two. When cerebral exercise resumes, you would possibly surprise why the sauce doesn’t include its personal noodles.

No different mazemen is such a pleasure experience, however the vaguely Italian one with tomatoes, mushrooms, kombu and an offended crimson soak of chile oil is just not the sort of factor you need to flip your again on. Even the tribute to Russ & Daughters, the place the noodles are coated with spicy cod roe and the topping is sliced smoked salmon, can sneak up on you.

Niche is without doubt one of the few ramen-yas on the town the place the appetizers are price noticing. Sea urchin perched on tiny corners of toast is an odd and awkward affair, however the sardines on toast, dressed with chile flakes, are superb, as are the uncooked scallops with yuzu juice and the avocado salad showered with puffed rice.

Should fries be an appetizer? Maybe not, notably Niche’s “umami kombu fries,” which have been sprinkled with powdered shio kombu till they’re virtually subliminally inexperienced. Apart from the colour, they appear like the fries at McDonald’s. The distinction is that the shio kombu makes them virtually diabolically arduous to cease consuming. And for those who don’t eat them earlier than the mazemen arrives, then when will you?

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